Let’s say you’re remodeling and laying down some eye-catching new flooring. Suddenly, you realize that you need to do more than just install the floors themselves – you also need to install the baseboards. Before you shift into panic mode, let’s start with the basics here. What is a baseboard exactly? Baseboard a wooden or vinyl board that covers the lowest part of an interior wall. Its main purpose is to cover up the seam where the floor meets the wall and to protect the wall from furniture, kicks, and other abrasions. In many homes, it’s decorative as well as functional.
There are multiple types of molding you can use for your baseboard, and the installation depends on the type you choose. Hardwood Bargains offers a huge selection of both flooring and transition pieces from the same material to make shopping for your molding a breeze. Just select the wood you want for your flooring, and listed below are the types of moldings from the same material. We like to keep it simple.
Quarter round is your transition from floor to wall and one of the most common types of molding seen in homes. There is always a small gap between where your floor ends, and your wall begins, and this molding nicely covers that gap. Because they’re lying flush with the wall, you can choose to have the quarter round match the wall instead of the floor. It’s up to the interior designer within you!
The great news is that baseboard is very easy to install. Baseboards are standard in most homes, and the quarter round is usually nailed into the baseboard. Neither type is necessarily very fancy, but they get the job done without any excessive flourish. Another type of quarter round molding is called shoe molding, which is a little bit thinner and can easily hide uneven floors. So, let’s get into how you can install your own baseboards on your quest to create the home of your dreams.
Materials
You can’t start your DIY project without materials and supplies. Be prepared is the biggest part of this project, so you will need:
· Caulk
· the baseboards themselves
· pry bar
· paint brushes
· paint
· wood fillers
· finishing nails
· a miter saw
· a circular saw
· a coping saw
· compass, sandpaper
· safety glasses
· a tape measure
· a pencil (for marking the walls)
In terms of a timetable, you should give yourself at least a full day for this project, possibly more if you’re a beginner. The project isn’t hard, but you want to check the fits for the boards, so you get them right from the start. Measuring and cutting angles can be a little tricky, so give yourself time to take it slow.
Safety Tips
Installing baseboard isn’t a difficult process, but since you’re using power tools, you should always be careful. That means wearing eye protection at all times to stop flying splinters and debris from damaging your face and wearing earplugs to dampen the noise. Always keep your working surface clear and clean and read and follow the instructions for your power tools.
The Installation Process
Before you begin, measure the room, and round up to the nearest foot to determine how much baseboard you will need. Remember, measure twice, and cut (or buy) once. If you’re worried, give yourself an extra 6 inches just in case. You can also buy a couple of extra boards as back up for any cutting mishaps. There are three parts of baseboards that you’ll need:
• Cap molding: goes on top of the baseboards and can add an elaborate flourish if you want. These are optional and not necessary for more basic styles.
• Baseboard: the actual baseboard ranges from 3 to 6 inches tall.
• Shoe molding: another optional ornamental part that goes at the bottom of the baseboard. Often used when putting down new flooring.
To prepare, bring your baseboards home and let them adjust to your home’s humidity for a couple of days. You should always do this when installing any wood materials in your home to let them acclimate to the humidity level and prevent any warping and buckling after installation.
Let’s get right to the installation steps, shall we?
1. Remove Baseboards
The first step is to remove the old baseboards. As a quick note, this guide assumes you are not installing quarter rounds, which are nailed onto existing baseboards. Cut away the trim and use a pry bar to remove the actual plank. Check for remaining nails and remove those as well. Then scrape and sand off any remaining glue or caulk on the wall.
2. Measure
Next, it’s time to measure and cut your baseboards. If you plan to paint the baseboards, do that now, before they’re installed, and let them dry. Then, find and mark the wall studs. Check your room to see if the floor is level.
If it isn’t, attach a scrap piece of baseboard to the wall and use the top as a point of reference to find the common level and mark the top edge of where your baseboard will be placed. Most people recommend starting at an inside corner. You’ll need to use a process called scribing to give your baseboards a snug fit. Use a compass to find the bottom line, and use your circular saw to cut a 5-degree bevel in the baseboard. Hold the baseboard up to the wall to make sure it fits and, if not, use sandpaper to increase the bevel as appropriate.
As a note, if you’re putting in baseboard and planning to add carpet to the room later, increase the baseboard’s height by 1 inch to allow room for the carpet. If the carpet has already been laid and you’re not planning to add a quarter round or shoe mold, the baseboard should be flush with the top of the carpet.
3. Outside Corners
Fit the baseboard against the corner of a wall or door casing and draw a vertical line up the back of the board on the other end. Mark the top of the board, then place the other board against the adjacent wall. Mark it the same way. Set your miter saw for 45 degrees and cut about 1/16th of an inch longer than you measured to make sure the boards fit snugly. Put both boards back against the wall to check the fit. If it’s too tight, use sanding to get rid of excess wood. If the fit is good, use wood glue on the mitered edges and nail in place.
4. Coping With Inside Corners
These can be tricky. For an inside corner, one baseboard will be coped to fit against the other baseboard for a great fit. Fit one baseboard flush against the wall with a straight cut. You can use your mitered saw to bevel the end at a 45-degree angle. Then, use a coping saw to cut along your baseboard’s profile. Make sure you angle the blade so you’re cutting away from the back of the baseboard, and then sand the edges. Check the fit and, if it’s good, nail the boards into place.
5. Butting Heads
When two boards meet on a long wall, you make a scarf or butt joint. To do that, miter the ends at 45 degrees in opposite directions then, glue and overlap the miters. Follow the glue with a nail that covers the joint.
6. Finish Up
Install your cap molding or shoe molding if you want. Use caulk to adhere the top edges, corner edges, and nail holes. Repaint the baseboard if necessary and then apply the top coat of paint.
You’re all done! Congratulations on your new baseboard installation. Now, you’re a pro, and your floors and baseboards look finished and fabulous!
Sources
https://www.remodelista.com/posts/what-are-baseboards-molding-remodeling-101/
https://www.hunker.com/12255727/what-is-the-difference-between-caulk-sealant
